EcoPoxyFlowCast Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Kit - 3.2 Gal / 12L: UV/Yellowing Resistant, Bio-Based Resin | Water Clear Epoxy for River/Ocean Tables and Other Deep Casting Bubble Free Epoxy Projects

If you're looking for deep, crystal-clear, consistent pours, this is hands-down the best epoxy on the market. What really sets EcoPoxy apart is their customer service. If you’ve got questions about your project or need help dialing in the right technique, just give them a call—they’ll walk you through it step by step and even share helpful tips and tricks. Great product backed by a great team.

Amazing product quality, I rexommend for all epoxy work.

You need to know the drying times and if you want to stir the epoxy for swirl's when to do so. Have done 6 or more tables and this performs well. Some were 1.75 inches thick and dried well. Only nuance was bubbles and temperature when you pour. Just hit the bubbles with torch however I still wound up having some bubbles inside the pour.Once dried, this sands well and if using 1000 grit final sand on the epoxy it comes out glass smooth. Of the brands I have tried, this is the best thus far.

Once product itself is dry, it is very durable and brings out the very best detail in slab wood table tops for example. However, it is not as easy to work with as you might think. When mixed, it's much closer to the viscosity of water than syrup for example, which makes it flow thru and into any wood cracks better, but also puts any tape used to control its flow under more strain. Product comes in two bottles - epoxy and resin - and mixing them together is straight forward and low VOC. The preparation of the material you are using this product on (for example a table top slab), and the details of how the process is accomplished are the critical elements. As an example - if using product to seal a table top, you must ensure that you start with a THIN coating into any cracks in the wood AND let that dry thoroughly, before applying additional product layer, or layers. If you try and pour the cracks full with the first application or one application, especially if those cracks are thick and deep, the wood will just absorb too much product AND it will put pressure on any tape used on the bottom side of the table top slab for example, and likely will leak out around the underside crack(s) thru the tape (especially if its not the right tape). Using the right kind of tape on the bottom of the cracks before pouring is critical. I was told to use Tyvek house wrap tape initially - big mistake ! That product not only leaked out from under that tape, that tape was to thin and almost impossible to peal off when product was dry (it bonded with the product directly and took ages to chip off). I found that green frog tape, the kind used in painting, worked much better and detached from the dried product much better. Best advice can give - Watch LOTS of available videos on the web showing examples of applying this material, especial to your specific application, BEFORE you start working with this product on your own project !

Takes forever to dry but it works very well. Use the faster drying one if you are using powdered dyes

I have used both this new formula and the previous discontinued formula on 5 different deep pour river tables all of which are about 2" thick. The stuff simply works great for me and I am an amateur just taught myself how to do this stuff recently watching a few YouTube videos. Literally no smell what so ever. Never had issue with soft spots from poor mixing(I use my drill and a paint mixer attachment and mix really well being careful not to introduce too much bubbles). I will pop bubbles with heat gun for the first few hours and then leave overnight, come back next morning and there is usually a few more stragglers that need attention, pop those and the epoxy is Chrystal clear. I run it through my 20" planer no issues. I will say I used a hand planer once a dewalt cordless model and not sure if I was pushing too fast or the blades were dull, but I chipped the epoxy pretty badly so be careful there. Overall highly recommended.

I used EcoPoxy for my rivertable computer desk and it was quite easy to use. Although it is crucial that you follow the instructions on the container regarding temperature, pour thickness, ratios, and cure time, if you follow what the container instructs, you'll be fine. This was my first time working with any type of epoxy and I have to say that although I was initially nervous in how to properly use the epoxy (as it was not cheap) after my first pour, it was like clockwork afterwards. the finished product came out great and although I'm not completely done with the construction of the desk. I am very pleased with the outcome.

I have used Ecopoxy Flowcast for several months now. I made some resin wood hybrid bowls I turned on the lathe, and recently have been pouring river tables. The viscosity is super thin, so bubbles break out easily on their own. I do recommend coating your wood surfaces before making a pour. When the wood soaks up the resin, it will sometimes leave bubbles in the late cure stage. By pre- coating, I have seen less bubbles deep in the epoxy pour. This resin takes about 36 hours to harden tack free. But the results are worth waiting for. Sands and polished nicely.