Environmental Technology EasyCast Crystal Clear Casting Epoxy Mix (2-Part Kit) For Coating of Small Arts & Crafts, Wood, Jewelry Making | Low Odor & Solvent Free | 8 oz Resin + 8oz Hardener (16 ounce)

This stuff normally cures very slowly, and the 1:1 ratio is critical. I initially got some bad results (uncured epoxy) by not titrating carefully, and by omitting the second mixing container. So follow the directions and don't skimp on the mixing.For a faster cure, I got good results by mixing it in an empty tin can. Which I then held over a heat gun until the stuff was warmed to maybe 120-140F. All the while, I mixed it thoroughly. I kind of alternated between using wooden sticks and a cordless drill with a piece of bent wire in it. I mixed and mixed for about 5 minutes at least. If the stuff starts smoking, then it's too hot, and it will likely start to set before you're done mixing! Then, following the directions, I poured it into a second container. Got a new stick and wire. And mixed some more without the heat for a few minutes. Finally, I poured it and left it out in the sun in 100+ degree heat. Within a couple or three hours, it set pretty hard.I dunno about bubbles or color, but it works well for what I intended.I recommend the use of syringes, if you plan to mix up small quantities. With proper mixing temp, this stuff can be used as regular structural/adhesive epoxy in addition to casting usage. With the heat gun and some experimentation, I can get it to a thick gel consistency that sets within 10-30 minutes. Adhesion is very good. Also, when heated, the stuff mixes a lot easier. So you might want to heat it just a little, even if you are going for a slow cure.

I really like the ease of use with this kit. It's 1 to 1 measurement was so much easier than your typical say fiberglass resin mixtures. This easycast had virtually no odor which was a major plus considering I am 8 months pregnant. Do wear latex or kitchen gloves though it is not too terribly hard to get off your skin. Do make sure the mixture is exactly 1 to 1 as your finished product will remain tacky if it is not measured exactly. I recommend flat bottom, clear, throw away cups for that. Also make sure the mixture is fully mixed before pouring. I have seen a lot of videos on youtube explaining its good to mix for a few minutes and let it set of at least 5 before pouring. Though some techniques vary this one worked for me.Follow the instructions exactly especially about room temperature and I am sure humidity is a big factor. One of the pluses of having a low odor is this is a project you can do in say your dining room. Just be sure to cover your molds while they are drying. I would definitely be purchasing this item again...though probably not soon because a little bit does go a long way so the 16oz kit will last you a while unless you are mass producing.

Made 3 batches so far, each worked perfectly except for a hemisphere mold, where there was a slightly rough line between the layers poured. I tired to keep the items from sinking so poured a 1/2" deep layer and waited an hour, but it hadn't set up by then so we just went ahead (they items didn't stick through the epoxy after all). Used small plastic cups to mix with that had ribbing on the sides, so it was easy to measure out exactly the same amount by counting the ribs and marking both cups before pouring. I also had trouble finding a perfectly elvel spot for them to cure, so the first batch was tilted. Results were spectacular - dazzliingly clear. So clear that the plan to put small rubber bumpers on the bottoms of the coasters meant that the bumpers have to be considered in the overall design-- they are completely visable. Wonderful project for making presents out of a summer's collection of sea glass and shells. Used slightly more than one 16 ounce kit to make 2 3" hemisphere globes and 4 4" round coasters.

I have used this epoxy casting resin for encapsulating a few electrical parts. I was very impressed with how clear the epoxy is and how clear it cures - I looks water-clear to me. When you mix the two parts, be sure to stir well but not so vigorously that you mix air bubbles into the mix.Regardless of how you measure it, you must be careful to measure the exact 1:1 ratio of resin to hardner. If you are off a bit on the side of not enough hardener it will never, ever harden. You can heat the un-hardened mis-measured glop but that won't make it harden. On the other hand, using a heat gun with moderate heat does help further soften the unhardened mis-mix so you can remove it more easily and start over. If you go a bit too high on the hardner it hardens faster - That is not always a good thing.Even without vacuum de-gassing, the epoxy seems to do a good job of letting any air bubbles rise to the surface before it cures - That's the advantage of a very slow cure and a very low viscosity. Resist the temptation to touch the material before it is fully cured if you don't want fingerprints.If you should use vacuum degassing, I have noticed that you shouldn't go below -20 inches of mercury of vacuum ( a full vacuum is about -30 inches of mercury). Somewhere between -20 and -25 inches of mercury; boiling is induced by the vacuum in the uncured epoxy mix. I assume this is water or some other volatile compound present in the epoxy. Anyway, this induces bubbles in the uncured epoxy, though when you return to normal pressure these bubbles mostly collapse and disappear. Unless you are using a refrigeration type vacuum pump this is probably not a issue. (My vacuum gauge is calibrated in "inches of mercury" - there is no actual mercury present.)